Day 154  to 165

December 7th to the 18th, 2007

From Mulege to La Paz.

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Just south of Mulegé, along Mex. 1, are some of the nicest beaches in Baja, on Bahia Concepcion.

Here's one that's about 10 miles from town.
They're kinda cool, those colorfull bungalows.



Some people told us: "There's rain coming...One system from the north and one from the south, there's no escaping it..." So, we thought it would be a good idea to have a place indoors for a couple of days so, we rented one of those bungalows and, guess what? It never rained !!!


Cuanto cuesta?

-$15 a night. Including electricity (solar panel), toilet and shower, 2 beds, table and chairs and propane stove. But at that low price, the bungalow is not quite on the beach...OK! That will be perfect for 2 days!

In fact:
-The solar panel did'nt work so, no power during the day but, from 6:00 pm to 6:00 am, the huge generator that's just a few feet from our bungalow "snores loudly" and supplies the power.
-Shower yes, but room temperature water only...
-Stove yes, but no propane to fuel it. We had to "borrow" the propane tank next door...
-Also included, at no extra cost, the cockroaches that run on the floor at night.
-Also included, at no extra cost, a good "tourista".
--2 nights will be enough after all.

The good side is that the solid roof sheltered us from the howling wind of the first night.


The view from our bugalow towards the bay.


Probably the best way to enjoy this place is to come down here with an RV and rent or buy a palapa on the beach. A few good folks spend the winter here. They form a small community always ready to welcome new arrivals. They invite us to the farewell (or au revoir...) dinner they organized for a couple that leave tomorrow. Many thanks to everyone for the very warm welcome!



Met Philip and Vanessa on the beach. A charming couple from Spain who came to visit the Americas.
Marc litterally fell in love...with their car...)

You can follow them on their web site
click here



Typical road sign.
Only in Baja!



In Baja,you see all kinds of equipments...
...That come from all over the planet. (And possibly from elsewhere...)



In Baja, your standards change...In Canada, such a sanitary installation would'nt have it's place in the middle of a restaurant. But here, to have water, soap and paper to wash your hands before a meal is a rare luxury!!
Click here to see.



Bahia Concepcion is lined with nice small beaches on the sea of Cortez.




Here's one we find particularily appealing.
Playa Coco. That's what we call camping "on the beach".

Unfortunately, there's only pit toilets here. And they're pretty smelly too...Not your ideal deal for your "tourista"...

Over here, it's first come, first served. We afford ourselves the luxury of a big palapa (to be out of the wind). The guy responsable shows up every couple of days to collect the...$6.00 a night fee. We stay here 3 days, never saw the man...

At high tide, there's less then 3 feet between the water and the quad!


Miss Minnie is enjoying her siesta...


...And Mister Marc does the same, for a while...


...Then goes back to work...I got to hand it to you though, the decor is a little more enjoyable than that of your office! Close your eyes and imagine yourself here...


It's all about the color of the water...


Playa Coco, at dawn. (Oooups! Excuse-me, I got to go...)


Back in saddle (nice change from being on the trone...), heading for Loreto. The scenery, along the coast is stunning!


But the desert can be just as beautiful! Note how it is covered with green. The inconvenience of having been rained on is largely compensated by the fantastic decor the rain brought. We were, in fact, really lucky to have had that rain because it is rare that you can see the desert as green as it is now. Especially this time of the year. (Speaking of something green, I got to go...again...)

In fact, considering the cool and windy weather we've been having since we've been in Baja, we even prefer the desert (where it's less windy) over the beaches.



Nature litterllay explodes with green. This reminds us of spring time back home.
(Speaking of explosions of green...S'Cuse me...Got to go!)


Perfect roads for our vehicules, or perfect vehicules for these roads? Our Polaris Sporstman X2s are exactly the vehicule we need down here.


Perfect for our 4X4!



     Polaris Industries - Canada                            Polaris Industries - USA



The law of nature is the law of the fittest...
The vultures are waiting for the next victim...



After a whole day of riding, Minnie is so exhausted she could sleep in sh...

Another chilly morning...A good coffee...A few cramps and...Oh No! Not again...


No, we did not make to the Amazon...Yet...


...This the main road to reach San José de Commundu.
There's a tiny little river here and where there's water, there's palm trees.


Having water available gives the opportunity to the people to have a small garden and to grow fruit trees. Oranges, tangerines, dates, limes, bananas and other fruits are found in many "back yards".


Missionnary of a different kind??


The San José de Commondu Mission, you have to earn it...Getting here is the challenge! Especially using the "road" we used...And now, Perdone Senor, donde esta el camino por Loreto??


Here's the 2/3 - 1/3 road.

2/3 of it is concrete, 1/3 is rocks????? (Guess the fast lane is concrete..)


Minnie is checking to make sure we get our $5.00/gal worth at the San Miguel de Commondu full serve gas station.


THE restaurant of San Miguel. Don't look for other tables, this is it! Now that's home style cookin'!


Just another witness of the Quadtrek Adventure!


Back on the top...(OOOups! Got ot go...again...)


...And the road is still just as bad...


Who said dirt was cheap? Here, it's rare! Corps are burried under rocks more than dirt. Cemetaries are often very colorfull with flowers.



It's near Loreto, in Las Parras, we found this tiny church...
...3 rows of seats, room for 18 people.


Approaching Loreto. Nearing the sea of Cortez again. for your info, there's over 20 miles from the sea to where this picture was taken...


In Loreto, by pure chance, we stumble upon the Del Borracho Saloon and grill.



Owned by a super friendly couple, Cholie and Mike Patterson, the place is unique in Baja because it's made of wood, a very rare material here. The food here besides being excellent, is also unique in Baja as it is typically American. After 5 weeks of tacos, it's a welcome change!
Mike's been around the Baja race for over 30 years so he has a lot of friends in the area. one of them found a brand new coupler for our trailer. "No charge"!
Plus Marc can use mikes tools to install it.
Mike and Cholie also rent this cute little casita. It will be our palace for 2 days.


If you're in Loreto, stop at the Del Borracho, you'll love the place! And if, by chance, you happen to stop there on a friday, make sure you order some of Cholies Clam Chowder. It's to die for!! Oh Yeah! Don't forget to taste her homemade oatmeal cookies too, divine!

Thanks for everything guys! It's really appreciated!


In Loreto...

Internet café, Baja version.
You plug in where you can...


No, no, this is not Québec city or some town near the north pole. This is the Loreto zocalo.


How do you know you're in Baja? You know you're in Baja when you can buy your meat at the local "flea market"...T-Shirts on this counter, tools on this one and...pork chops on the next!! What? You don't see a refridgerator? Well, that's 'cause there is no fridge...



Yeah ! Meeting many new interesting people!
Yeah ! We meet a lot of nice, friendly and interesting folks that have a lot of cool stories to share.
Bof... La "tourista"!!
Bof... Ooouch, Ooouille! S'cuse-me, I can't type any longer, I have to go!!



Next step, San Javier.




You are entering San Javier. Main street is paved with rocks and cement. Looks cool!


The mission of San Javier (1699 - 1817)


Another very nice couple, Rafael & Maria, also from Spain (like Philip and Vanessa) came to explore the Americas. They accompanied us to San Javier where we shared a great meal and great travel stories. You can follow them on their web site (providing you read Spanish...)

Thanks for the very nice evening and Bon Viaje!


December 16th, 2007.

Here's the last gas station on our way to La Paz, more then 200 miles from here. It's abandonned. This is justone of the reasons why people say: "In Baja, never pass up an open gas station without getting gas."

Good thing we filled up at the last gas station. We should be good...


Kids love Minnie!



Another night in the desert. We are home here. It's peace, tranquility. There's no noise whatsoever.


December 17th, 2007.

Finding a decent route that get us where we want to go is'nt always easy. This morning, the only unpaved road goes through...THE DUMP...

Surely you'll understand that the locals who came to unload their trash (and those who came to pick up some...) are staring at us like they're thinking:
"What the he.. are those Gringos doing here??"

Lets just say the feeling of "I'm not too too sure about this one" is pretty strong...But yes, that was really the road to take to avoid Mex. 1...


After a quick stop at the San Luis Gonzaga mission, we hit the "road" for La Paz. Surprisingly, we cross a few streams on the way.


The rain of the last weeks benefits to all...



Baja style mile marker...



A perfect spot to spend the night. In the middle of nowhere, atop a plateau only accessible through a nearly impassible road for anything but a big 4X4. We'll be safe here.




Bonne nuit! (Ooouch! I have cramps again...)


December 18th, 2007.

What a color contrast! this part of Baja (near San Évaristo), to us, is one of the nicest. Very few tourists come here. Only a handful of dirt bike riders. It only makes it even more enjoyable!


That's Baja!



Lunch break on the beach.
Where else can you find rocks as colorful as these?



Punta coyote. But where's the road runner?



Soon, La Paz...The fuel gauge says less than 1/4...


Here we are! It was about time! I've been riding on reserve (gauge flashing) for 3 miles, and it's supposed to be good for...5 miles!  Naaa, don't worry, we still had one more jerry can full...;)


This sweet little casita will be home for a few days.


It's Minnie who has the last words: "Hey I'm only 6 months! I'm just a baby!!"







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Vue d'ensemble/
general view

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carte  détaillée/
detailed map/

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À / At     El Renegado
Date       12 déc./ Dec 12th
Lat    N   26 08 36
Long  W  115 55 59
Elevation 1300 pieds/feet






50C   122F
  40C   104F
30C   86F
20C   68F
10C   50F
0C   32F
-5C   23F
-10C   14F
soleil.gif (1277 octets)

Daytime  average.













It's all or nothing.

It's a road...


...Or it's hell!






Les statistiques

Total 12 jours / 12 days

530 Miles
6562 Miles: à date/to date
$210 Resto
$157 Épicerie/Food
$121 Essence/fuel
$55 Camping
$60 Divers/Misc.
$603 Total






Dû à la très faible disponibilité de bouffe fraîche, et aussi dans le but de pouvoir goûter les mets Mexicains locaux, nous avons décidé, pour la durée de notre séjour à Baja, de manger plus souvent au resto.

Si nous découvrons quelque chose d'extra-ordinaire, nous vous en ferons part.

Due to the very limited availability of fresh food and also to enjoy local Mexican food, we decided to eat at restaurants more often for the duration of our stay in Baja.

If we discover something worth mentionning,we'll let you know.

Aujourd'hui /Today:

Tacos! Beef tacos, fish tacos, chicken tacos, refried beans tacos. There's tacos in the restaurants, at the taco shops and at the taco stands on the streets everywhere.

Today, we test our tourista with tacos from a street vendor. Dos tacos con carne. por favor! A little lettuce, tomatoes and salsa with that??






Les Oscars-The Oscars: le gagnant est... LA CHOSE LA PLUS APPRECIÉE:



The portable toilet!
(See, I knew I had to save it the other day...)









Nous sommes fiers de vous présenter nos partenaires.
Ils nous ont fourni un soutien important afin de nous aider à réaliser cette aventure. MERCI À TOUS



We are proud to introduce you to our partners.
Their precious collaboration helped us live this fabulous adventure.


Polaris Industries - Canada
Polaris Industries - USA

RM Motosport

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Durocher Transirt


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